Despite having agreed we were doing no more sightseeing, we decided that we would walk to Camara de Lobos, a fishing village. This was a two hour walk and was more beautiful than we had expected. We saw the second highest sea cliff in the world, Cabo Girao, and walked along the long, black beach which we hadn’t even know existed.
Camara de Lobos is, indeed, very pretty. We wandered a little then, realising we were both starving, decided to find somewhere to eat. We debated eating right by the bay, wondering if these would be the best, or, indeed, the worst places to eat. In the end, having taken a winding street that took us above the bay, filled with fishing boats, we found Vila Do Piexe. Its sister restaurant, just behind us, Vila Do Carne, promised meat but we had come for fish. The huge glass box of the restaurant was empty and we decided to sit outside in the sunshine, overlooking the bay.
We wandered to the back of the restaurant to the fish counter and were helped by the extremely lovely staff. We decided to try the limpets, which I had spent my childhood trying to prise off rocks but had never eaten. For our main,we went for scabbard or espada, as we had now realised they were one and the same, a grouper and a parrot fish. The fish, all sold by weight and landed that morning, came to a grand total of €27. With this,we had a salad and chips, after being convinced that the chips were really, really good and came with oregano and garlic.
The limpets came in the low pan they were cooked in. Mostly, they tasted of garlic, the texture was similar to a small muscle but the underside reminded me a little of liver. We learned that the green ones were female and the yellow, male.
Our fish was simply grilled, and it was interesting to eat the three different fish side by side, the parrot notably firmer and meatier than the scabbard. The chips were, indeed, very good, more like fried potatoes, and the flavours were very much the essence of childhood, Spanish holidays and so were delicious.
I was delighted to see that the dessert card was also a throwback to childhood holidays in Spain and the prepackaged desserts I had so coveted, especially the lemon sorbet inside an actual lemon. I know, I have no idea why either.
We climbed into a taxi for the journey back. The walk is worth doing one way and not quite as hilly as we had thought, thankfully.